Alfa Romeo 164: september 2015

Another problem.
Boots not really in good shape
and I think a bump stop is missing too.

Boots are supposed to prevent dust to enter
the tight space between the shiny rod
and the rubber seal in the shock absorber.

164.0 Note the location of spring end.
Top and bottom

Parts bump stops there are some for Koni as well,

even polyeurethane ones

164.1 Sachs repair kit Shock core diameter 22 mm

164.2

Tools well there are many out there you need a good tool , these springs when compressed act ekcately like the springs in the pens you used to take apart in school on boring days , compress them and they might fly a considerabely distance...remember how easy they were to compress , their weight and the distance the flev.

164.3

You are going to need some really sturdy stuff this is the best I have ever had

164.4

For the top of the strut you need another tool a very loooong socket 22 mm open alloving you to stop the shiny rod to rotate this one sadly didnt work its way to big in outer diameter

164.5 top mount three bolts 13 mm 164.6 the not so right socket

164,7 So if you are out there to buy tools max outer dia. would be : 33 mm

Top mount upside down inner diameter of hole for shock nut shown

Damned Pain Arrrrrrgh.

164.8

This one fits perfectly sadly it comes without the opening that allows you tho fix the shockrod from spinning hence plan B a mole grip at the highest akcessible point on the rod.

Top mount out of car to clearer illustrate
Torque 66 - 82 Nm. 164.9

Start at the top Top mount 13 mm ringspanner or long socket .

Torque 12 - 18 Nm. 164.10

Now the base of the strut is the original Boge , the Koni is insertet into that and fixed to it with a bolt at the bottom.

To loosen the bracket you once again need a breaker bar and a 17 mm socket. WD 40 might come in handy too.....

Torque 40 - 49 Nm. 164.11

Thes came of surpricingly easy , now remove the top mount before you remove these bolts completely or you will find it difficult to support the weight of the strut AND loosen the three nuts.

164.12 leave them the strut assembly is heavy.

pull them out when your foot is out of the way.

Secure the strut in a wise bottom bracket facing right or left or whatever you prefer , there are many many asymmetrical parts and you need to realign them.

164.13

Be careful you might lose a hand or two. Church in Verona Italy

Put your spring compression tool on and squeeeeeeese.MAKE SHURE SEVERAL TIMES THAT THE HOOKS SPADES OR WHATEVER IS IN CONTACT WITH THE SPRING IS IN THE RIGHT PLACE . Here shown with the molegrip at the top of the shock rod.

Contactpoints at the spring Compressing tool and molegrip
164.14

Remove parts top to bottum here closeup of the molegrip position on the shockabsorber core, it really doesent leave any marks.

164.15

note the two screwdrivers pointing at the groove and the corresponding thing

at the green screwdriver.

Bump stop ready to be shortend

164.17

164.16

Last part lover yellow bearing to the very left.

Whats left in the wise. A compressible rod.Some force is needed !!

164.18 164.19

That upon release returns

164.20

Boot and bump stop , Spring has lowered the car a lot so the bump stop needs shortening.

Box knife lubricated with silicone spray does the job.

164.21 164.22

Assemble boot and stop.

from below

groove and notch

apply silicon spray

164.23

Bearing on

Boot and stop on silicon spray eases it a lot.

Grease between rod and rubber seal
silicone based grease
164.24 164.25

And then on the lower bearing.

Remember orientation

Screwdriver tip at the recess for the start of the spring strut body still in same orientation as during disassembly.
164.26 close up botttom plate and spring 164.27

align the upper plate and the top mount , the impression from the spring in the seal is clearly on the underside , this alignmentspot too.

164.28 164.29

Well since plan A was the proper strut socket and it didnt fit Mole grip again in position above the bump stop , you have to depress the boot and the bump stop.

molegrip on shock rod top 164.30

Im waiting for a new driveshaft hence the delay in putting it back on the car . Torque for the top mount 13 mm nuts : Lower Bracket bolts :

Well you could end up needing a pair of theese
164.31

Front trailing arm , front bush,despite the use of powerflex it doesent look right , we need to give it a closer look its powersteering oil all ower the place .

Torque 29 - 32 Nm.

164.32

You might as well be prepared for a lot of time , pain and suffering again under you car

164.33

Trailing arms usally comes with the two inner OEM rubber bushes preinstalled , some even with the outer ball joint.

Here hub assembly and brakes onto the outer ball joint.

164.34

Do you really want polyeurethane bushes , well at least the rear bush is reasonable easy to replace. Start your drillbit your stanley knife ad your Dremel 164.35

Clean the aluminum casing , this is NOT clean 164.36

Final touch grinding paper onto the dremel and you end up with this GREEESE 164.37

SQUEECE

Do not panic if the bush tilts on it way through the aluminum casing,just continue 164.38

The aluminum casing jumps up like this

164.39

Continue ,steel tube in GREEESE 164.40

This powerflex is asymmetrical

FRONT 164.41 REAR

164.42

FRONT REAR

164.43

Its time for some cake

I´ll be back.

William Lutken

AR 164 3,0 V6 1991 ABS.

Hub , bearing and ABS connector.

The holy grail a hydraulic press 12 tons .

"You never know when you need an iron pipe Terkel !"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8vJF3YjmIE

A very sweet danish cartoon , here in italian of course.

På dansk.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiwgLaZiIOE&list=RDjiwgLaZiIOE#t=18

Well its really not funny when you pull a wheelbolt of and the threads are shot and the next too you really want the wheels to stay on the car.

Shocking bad bolts to the left , new on the right

164.1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMl124VvFRg

You are going to need espresso and some spare parts.

Hubs ,bearing aksel nut.

164.2

Hub nice clean threads

164.3

Get them, sooner or later you are gonna need them ...

Torque 356 - 400 Nm..

164.4

Thats whats missing in the old one

THREADS. 164.5

YTools 3/4 " breaker bar 36 mm socket,waterpipe sliding hammer.

"You never know when you need an iron pipe Terkel !"ou might have to reduce outer diameter.

164.6 Extension 164.7

Patience a lot it has to be done with the wheel on the car and the weight of it on the ground.

164.8 center cap of

Chisel , screwdriver along the groove in the driveshaft

164.9

Its a lot of gravity you need on a very long ( extended ) breakerbar.Emergency brakes on ,neutral gear you really do not want to risk timingbelt slip

Torque 356 - 400 Nm. 164.10

Well that one was easy.

Hubnut close up pretty beat up. 164.11

Plan B what if the nut is ruined , drillbit,oil , try two places
1 At the broad base of the nut just close to the groove in the shaft
2 Along the groove in the driveshaft

5,5 mm drillbit 164.12

A chisel and a hammer.Here a very nice 16 mm wide chisel
Split the bolt. Along the groove.
164.13

Right there two holes one along the groove , yes it looks messy try to chisel and hammer it anticlockwise. Then put your socket back on and it will come of.
164.14

164.15

hubnut back

164.16

Now back to business, hub of using wheelbolts and a sliding hammer or remove the whole unit and use a hydraulic press.

Sliding hammer in position using wheelbolts to fix it to the hub pull the hammer many many many times .
And then some .
IT is eventually going to get off. It really is !

Yeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaah , hub off. 164.12

The bearing is next step , you have to get the whole unit off.

Bearings Mapco to the left , including retainer ring and hub nut. Alfa Part to the right , dissapointing

164.13

I just think I will recommend this , comes with all you need.
164.14

Strut off you can choose to remove the entire unit , starting at the top , mark the bracket position through the hole.
164.15

Looosen all 4 bolts , breaker bar , need more space , turn the unit out from the wheelarch.

164.16

Tie rod end , nut loosen , try hammering ,CAREFUL
164.17

ABS sensor you really dont want to break the ABS sensor.
That one 164.18

Try this it works, apply pressure and the a whack with the hammer 164.19

The play in this is way too much
ABS wire , weel its at the inner wing , behind the inner plastic lining and that is behind the brake hose bracket , got it .
The bracket is of course welded to the inner body work.........

Disconnect the clamp securing the brake hoses to the bracket , just pull towards yourself 164.20

push the assembly down , 11 mm and 17 mm ringspanner will just fit inside the bracket,
164.21

Use a cap that fits , here a valve cap. Then push the brakeline up and out of the bracket.

Undo several completely wasted screws with a screwdriver , Phillips 2 or give up and cut them with your new seconbest friend a Dremel and a cutting disc.
164.22

Gentely pull and rotate forwards and the inner plastic will come of,
164.23

ABS wire through inner wing you could try to remove from hub , but you better have a new one ready, its stuck due to rust
164.24

Pull ABS connection here and slide it down , mine is to bad to be shown.
164.25

OK OK , This really isnt funny , its impossible to scource and its important , Ill have to find a high quality weather proof two pin replavement of some sort.
164.26

Back to the mechanical parts this has too much play in it 164.27

Lower ball joint same procedure . Or loosen the three bolts at the base 164.28

This works buy that tool
Clean the C lock ring , WD 40 spray and pray. 164.29

Well I thought I had a tool for compressing that C ring , but it didnt work.
If you have a new one , try this.
It will drive you mad , but again patience . 164.30

Again clean .
If you are loking for the rigt press tool it's Ø 72 mm in diameter.
164.31

Actully the hammer suceeded in the quest of loosening the bearing from the unit , used the press for the rest. NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE UNIT OUTSIDE UP. PRESSING THE BEARING OUT ON THE INSIDE. 164.32

Orientation is important , Water reservoir underneath Hagia Sophia Istanbul

INNNER SIDE OF THE UNIT NOTE THE 2 MM LIP.
164.33

The remaining stuff is just cleaning greasing squeasing.

Clean the inside.
Take care of the retaining ring groove , a screwdriver or similar.
164.34

And whatever is not shiny , remowe it. Sanding sheet , note the lip from the inside , clean it.
164.35

You can paint it or not, my paintbox was kind of thirsty for more.

164.36

Time to cool a bit , have an ice cream , Sicilian.

If you paint , stop at the bearing , paint there will not allow you to press the bearing into place 164.37

Pertty neat 164.38

ABS CONNECTOR

Except for the ABS connection . 164.39

Theese might do the job 164.40

Not funny but this has to work.
164.41

There is nothing left from the body of the connector cut the cable.
PUT the weather seal on and then the pin
164.42

The part onto the insulation has to be circular , that provides the best seal for the silicone seal that has to be slided onto that.
164.43

Neat, pins locked inside the body of the connector remember the orientation when you do the female part of this connection
164.44

Locked and ready
164.45

HUB ASSEMBLY

Apply grease just a thin layer , align
164.46

It´s time to some preassure ,center and be shure that all the items are horisontal.

164.47

There has to be room for the retaining lock ring in the groove
164.48

I missed this dent.

Time for a ring, pliers of a good quality is necessery.Try a screwdriver to press it all the way in along whith the pliers
164.49

The hub , its a long piece so it tilts more easily
164.50

align and realign SUPPORT THE BEARING UNDERNEATH OR THE INNER RACE WILL POP OUT
The old bearing suits this supporting task very well , on top somesthing small enough to pas the lockring and support the bearing 164.51

Nicely aligned 164.52

Finally things are back to normal , Close up of inner side , inner race too.
164.53

Outer hub assembly ready for the car
164.54

I´ll be back.
'
William Lutken

Alfa Romeo 164

onsdag den 23. september 2015

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